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Vitamin C SkincareWhich form of Vitamin C is best in skincare products?New vitamin C skin care products are appearing daily. Should you invest in one?
“I know, I know. Not another vitamin C product, right?” Niko Papadatos says, smiling at the audience of spa professionals who have come to hear about his newly-launched skincare line, Niko. Niko is showing off his Liquid C Serum at the Esthétique Spa International trade show in Toronto, Canada. The audience erupts in mock groans; as spa employees, they have already been inundated with new vitamin C products as well as information on the ingredient’s skin benefits. There is, however, a reason for the vitamin C hype: this ingredient is back by scientific research showing that it is effective against signs of aging like wrinkles and fine lines. Vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis and acts as an anti-oxidant, neutralizing free radicals. In a marketplace rich with over-hyped anti-aging products, vitamin C stands out as an ingredient that actually works. Types of Vitamin CChoosing a vitamin C product is not as simple as finding the cheapest or most expensive item on the market. In fact, vitamin C comes in several different forms and is more or less effective depending on its concentration, storage, and type. L-ascorbic AcidL-ascorbic acid is the ‘natural’ form of vitamin C. If L-ascorbic acid is fresh and properly stored, it will work well for those without sensitive skin. However, L-ascorbic acid has some downsides. First, it can be quite irritating to the skin. Second, it is not very stable. This means that it oxidizes easily when it is exposed to air. Oxidized vitamin C will not benefit skin and may even harm it by increasing free radical formation. If you are not sure how L-ascorbic acid has been stored or how old it is, do not use it. Some manufacturers now offer L-ascorbic acid enclosed as a serum in individual dime-sized sealed pouches (one woman who uses such a product refers to their look as ‘fish’). Users twist off the end of the pouch and apply the serum inside. This format seems to keep the vitamin C from oxidizing too quickly. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)MAP is a derivative of vitamin C that has the same collagen-boosting effect as L-ascorbic acid, but is more stable (it doesn’t oxidize as rapidly) and is gentler on sensitive skin. MAP is becoming more popular in skin-care lines as customers learn of the disadvantages of L-ascorbic acid. However since MAP does still degrade over time, it is important to keep these products sealed and away from sunlight. Ascorbyl PalmitateLike MAP, Ascorbyl Palmitate is a vitamin C derivative. Ascorbyl Palmitate does not have the advantages of MAP, however: it takes much higher quantities to get the collagen-producing effects of vitamin C. In fact, there is doubt as to whether the concentrations possible in skin-care products are enough to support collagen synthesis. While more stable than L-ascorbic, Ascorbyl Palmitate does degrade with time as well. SummaryWhile vitamin C is a wonderful skin-care ingredient, its effectiveness will depend on its form. If you are looking for a vitamin C cleanser or lotion, MAP is the safest form (why take the risk of doing more damage to skin with an oxidized product?). However, individual capsules of L-ascorbic acid can be particularly effective at adding radiance to the skin, especially when used each day for a set period (usually about a month). One thing to watch for: manufacturers sometimes will carry an entire line of vitamin C products and use different forms of vitamin C throughout. So, while that facial spritz has MAP, the night cream might actually contain L-ascorbic acid. For even more information, read Vitamin C derivatives: skin benefits of ascorbic acid without the down side.
The copyright of the article Vitamin C Skincare in Beauty Products is owned by Kathleen Rose. Permission to republish Vitamin C Skincare in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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